The hexagonal lay: a honeycomb with no straight joint line

Geometric patterns · 6 min read · updated 5 November 2026 · Written by Tilelico

A hexagonal tile has no straight joint line: each row nests into the one before. Its size reads flat to flat, then point to point, and its area is not the product of the two.

Real example · calculated by Tilelico

Bathroom of 3.50 × 3.00 m, 17.5 × 20 cm, 2 mm joint

WholeCutCut under 100 mmFreestanding bath

Straight walls land on the tiles’ points, hence the many narrow cuts flagged on the plan. A piece’s area is calculated on its real shape, not on its bounding rectangle.

Calculated result

Room area: 10.50 m²
Area covered: 9.17 m²
Whole pieces: 276
Cut pieces: 124
Actual need: 400
To order (+12%): 449
Waste with no offcut reuse: 12.7 %
Narrow cuts: 52

Most frequent cuts

124 cuts in 20 different sizes.

C01 · 108 × 31 mm× 20
C02 · 175 × 183 mm× 19
C03 · 175 × 134 mm× 18
C04 · 157 × 200 mm× 9

Setting out and products

Starting point 157 mm from the west wall and 134 mm from the north wall, then a 177 × 303 mm repeat. Estimated products: 32 kg of adhesive and 2.7 kg of grout.

Reproduce it in Tilelico

1Draw a 3.50 × 3.00 m rectangle, then add in the centre: Freestanding bath.
2Choose the covering: 17.5 × 20 cm, 2 mm joint.
3Select the “Hexagonal” pattern.
4Set the distribution to “Balanced cuts” and the margin to 12%.

Open this example in the editor

When to choose it

It suits bathrooms, kitchens and floors where you want a graphic look with no banded repetition.

Best forCommon hexagon sizes, from 17.5 × 20 to 25 × 30, on fairly simple floors.
Avoid ifThe room has many long visible walls: the sawtooth edge calls for many cuts.

Continue with: Laying terracotta hexagons: planning a tomette floor →

Preparing the job

Note both of your tile’s dimensions from the sheet: flat to flat and point to point. The stated size does not always have the proportions of a regular hexagon.

Plan how to finish the edges: skirting, trim or a clean cut, because the pattern’s edge is never straight.

Continue with: The cabochon lay: octagons and small squares on the point →

Step by step

Step 1 — Mark the row axisTransfer the row pitch from the plan, and check it runs parallel to the reference wall.
Step 2 — Dry-lay three tilesThey meet along their slanted sides: this is where the real joint is set.
Step 3 — Work in nested rowsEach row shifts by half a tile, never creating a straight line.
Step 4 — Check slanted jointsA difference carries over several sides: check the points line up with a straightedge.
Step 5 — Cut the edgesCuts repeat along a straight wall: prepare several at once.

Continue with: Laying small-format tile: a bathroom as the example →

Mistakes to avoid

Counting area by the rectangleMultiplying the two dimensions overstates the piece and skews the order.
Forgetting which way the points goOrientation changes the look and the cuts: compare it in the editor before starting.

These pointers describe common practice, not imposed rules. The data sheet for your covering and for your installation products always takes precedence, and measurements taken on site are the reference.

Frequently asked questions

Points towards the wall or flat side?

Both are used. Turn the grid by 90° in the editor to compare the look and the number of cuts.

Does it take more tiles than a straight lay?

Often, because a straight edge cuts into many pieces. A calculation on your dimensions answers this for your room.

Technical references

This guide describes common installation practices. It does not replace applicable technical documents, manufacturer instructions or measurements taken on site.